Restaurants
This cozy cafe may be easy to overlook, but its simple and stylish food is worth seeking out
Jay's Place
Two other entrées had mixed results. Porcini gnocchi ($15) were served dry and browned to a crisp, which seemed an odd choice for the delicate pasta; it was difficult to taste the mushroom. But the accompanying yams were perfectly cooked and delicious, not too sweet, and the spinach added a nice touch. At the same dinner, another entrée had another fantastic side and another imperfect main dish: The pork loin chop ($19) was tough and hard to chew. It may have just been too lean a cut; there were a few great, juicy bites near the fat. The second dose of pork on the plate, in the form of a bacon-studded potato cake, was thoroughly enjoyable, cooked crisp like perfect hash browns, the bacon making it wonderfully salty and meaty; and the accompanying red cabbage was flavorful and good.
At dinner in Jay's cozy space, the vibe is friendly, and even romantic if you want it to be; candlelight prevails. The restaurant, in the former Chet's Taverna space, is always welcoming. Lately, in a fresh and fun seasonal touch, its wood tables have been adorned with tiny pine boughs in bud vases, clipped from the young trees in the window boxes in front of the restaurant. Reddish wood covers the bottom half of the walls, giving way to a calming, light-green painted surface decorated with paintings and black-and-white photos by local artists.
The room will make an ideal setting for the intimate wine dinner coming up on Wednesday, February 20, probably featuring South American wines. Check the restaurant's website for updates and for other anniversary specials. Some involve breakfast, a meal that creates a bustle on weekends and offers creative spins on old favorites.
A potato scramble ($8.50) combined eggs, spinach, cheese, and a house-made chorizo that was smoky but not very spicy. Waffles ($7.50) vary daily; a cinnamon-almond one had a delightful, cinamonny-sweet flavor, was laced with pleasingly crunchy almonds, and was topped with good, fresh whipped cream, though it seemed a touch overcooked and tough. A surprisingly flavorful (for the dead of winter) fruit plate ($6.50) included cantaloupe, oranges, strawberries, blueberries, and grapes. Other breakfast options include a popular "surfer" burrito made with avocado, apple-caramel French toast, and an egg-and-smoked-gouda crepe with bell peppers.
Service at Jay's was consistently friendly, knowledgeable, and well-timed, and the desserts, at $5 each, were uniformly charming. There was a tart, lemony apple crisp; apples again in a bread pudding that consisted of soft slices of fruit-stuffed bread with a wonderful, thick caramel sauce; and a chocolate pot de crème, a baked confection that was denser than a mousse, lighter than a pudding, and topped with fresh whipped cream.
So, systems are in place for great food to be served, and Randolph plans to continue along those lines. "I don't see us deviating too far from the things Karl's got going—a pretty simple dinner menu, trying to make the prices a good value and affordable for people to come here once a week or once a month instead of once a year. I'll bring a little different style to it, but the basic ideas are going to be there: the local and organic thing, menu items that are approachable but creative." He also says he's still learning. "Being in business is like learning how to drive a car," he says. At first you're looking out no farther than the end of the hood, but as you gain experience you see what else is going on around you: "The longer I go on, the better peripheral view I get." And the better everyone around University and Raymond gets to eat.
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